Sometimes, it is the bow.

Over the last few weeks as the weather has turned wintry I have started shooting indoors and I have had a problem. While shooting outdoors my arrows have been tending to drift to the right (but still hitting gold when I should ), which I have put down to switching from freestyle  to barebow and the changes to my form, anchor and release that has led to.

But coming indoors I found that I could not get in the gold without aiming off and that is not right, if I didn't aim off I was shooing a nice line from 2 o'clock red to 5 o'clock red, so I have been really working on keeping my form and release tight but it didn't help and I have adjusted my centre shot and button every which way but to no avail. A couple of times arrow spine has come up in conversation, but these are the same arrows I was shooting freestyle and I had 40lb limbs then as I do now.......but when I got these arrows I was using my old Uukha EX1s and now I have the EVO2s , which have the same draw weight but defiantly "feel" faster, then I though if my arrows are tending right that would indicate a slightly weak spine. So  last weekend I started of buy letting off both my limb bots by 2 turns (which should be about 1.5-2lbs), then setup my bow and shot a Portsmouth. Well so far I had only managed a 433 and straight off I shot a 504 and then after a short break I managed a 532!

So a lesson f'or me, I usually start looking at the archer is there is a problem and then the bow. in this case I was so sure of my equipment that I did not think to question it.

Well a lot has been happening in my archery life.

As you know my old faithful Revolution went and died on me and I now have a nice new shiny 25" bare bow Revolution riser. The second big change is that as of the end of the 2018 season I am no longer captain of our clubs Summer Albion league recurve team. So how does that effect my shooting you may be asking, well in a big way, because now that I am no longer shooting in the Albion league I can concentrate on shooting bare bow (yay!).

I have started playing about with the tune of my bow but other than taking off the sight and swapping the long rod for a weight ( I never used a clicker), the biggest change was to alter the weight a bit by altering the limb bolts. The reason for this was not to fine tune the arrows but my point on distance, basically at fifty yards with three fingers under the arrow I was having to aim six o'clock blue black to hit the gold, by easing off the limb bolts one turn I am now point on the gold at fifty yards.

Which brings me to my first point (about point on), lots of archers assume that "point on" literally means putting the point of the arrow on the gold, which is logical but causes a problem. If you do this particularly at longer distances you obscure the gold and cannot see if you are a bit left or right of where you should be. So what you actually do is bring the tip of the arrow (you actually see the top curve of the tip/shaft) up until it just covers the bottom edge of the gold, this lets you keep your focus on the gold through the shot and improves constancy.

I have played a bit with the other distances and so far (oh and I am string walking, I forgot to mention that) what I have is 80 yards basically a Mediterranean draw with two fingers under and on over the nock and point on the gold, 60 yard three fingers under and point on 12 0'clock blue black, 50 yards three fingers under and point on the gold, 40 yards crawl down the string three stitches (on my black widow tab), 30 yards crawl five stitches and twenty yards crawl five then two (the black widow is a split tab). So far so good really enjoying shooting the way I have wanted to for the last five years and I will keep you all informed on my progress.

A bit of a long one but it might contain something useful....or maybe not who knows.....does anyone even take any notice anyway............

I posted this to an archery forum and then thought it might be good on here as well.



Ok first off I am not a coach and to be honest I really don't enjoy coaching, mainly because it really hacks me off when someone asks the way to somewhere and when you tell them where it is they immediately go in the opposite direction. So.....


I had a spare hour or so the other evening and thought I would pop over to the club (because at 7pm on a Wednesday nobody will be there) and spend a quiet hour just working on my release (which to be honest has got a bit raggedy over the winter). When I walked in it was right into the middle of two members (no that is not a euphemism) discussing whether a bow was twisted/out of alignment or not. Basically the owner of the bow was finding it increasingly difficult to keep his groups in the middle of the target as they kept drifting further and further to the right, this had been ongoing over the last year or so and his sight pin was soon going to disappear if he moved it any further to the right. As I walked in he asked me if I knew how to tell if a bow was twisted, I said that it was more likely a limb alignment issue and indeed that was the case which was easily sorted.


But as he had been shooting the bow for two years and the adjustment screws were snug with no play I told him that he if he was shooting OK with the bow a year ago then that was not the problem. "Ah! it's my sight then, look how far you guy have your sight pin from the riser mine is much closer, do you think it need changing for a better one?", I told him to stop worrying about his bow and look at his form and release, "but that can't be the problem, I practise four time a week shooting about a hundred arrows each time" he said. Now we get to the problem he does indeed shoot lots and often, but he NEVER shoots a round or even scores an end so has no way to quantify how well he is shooting, we have all I am sure shot a round at at the end found that we have score much higher or lower than we expected and he was pretty much estimating over a years shooting!


I then watched him shoot an end, his bow arm was good and to be honest he has a pretty good form, but his release was not good and his arrows were 15 to 20 cm off to the right of a 60cm face at 25m, I asked him to do me a favour and just work on one thing. When he released could he make sure that his hand touched his ear, just touched it nothing more definite than that, his next three arrows were a group on the right hand edge of the face. "OK now I just need to move my sight", I told him not to but to just keep shooting slow and steady making sure that hand touched that ear, about four ends later he was putting three arrow in a fist sized group at nine o'clock red/blue. His main problem was that he had no reference for his follow through so as his hand came off the string it was moving away from his face but not always to the same degree.


By this time I had to go (having shot no arrows), see told you I don't like coaching.


I was told by my first coach that the unless you move something on your bow the only thing that will change is you and I have always looked at myself first when things start to slip, ninety percent of the time the solution is to slow down and go right back to how you were taught to stand, look, draw and release the bow. I see so many archers chasing their arrows around a face, shooting, spotting, adjusting, shooting, spotting, cursing, adjusting, shooting....you get the idea. If they shot three arrows before spotting then they might find that they have a group that is high, low, left or right of the gold and then they can adjust, but if they just have three arrows spread around the face no amount of adjustment will help because they don't know which, if any was shot well.


You cannot adjust you sight without a group, if you have not adjusted your bow, then any change in your shooting is almost definitely you and quality of practice is far more imprint than quantity. Shooing a hundred arrows badly will only increase you stamina and ability to shoot badly, shooting ten arrows well will improve your shooting.


I hope that within these ramblings there is something of use to someone, but if not at least I have let off a bit............

Going for a ramble.....verbally

Hi all, so been a few weeks since I posted anything on here and I just thought I would have a little ramble.
So good news, yesterday was our club championships and I managed to lift the freestyle re-curve cup, the only fly in the ointment was that the four people that I would really have like to beat to take the cup did not shoot, but hay ho I am the CHAMPION!  :)

while we were shooting I encountered a mystery to rival Loch Ness.
There was an archer who was bemoaning the fact that their sight marks were not working and that they were fine just a few days ago so something must be wrong. I try to say to him that if the bow had not been altered and the weather was not a big factor ( it was  a lovely  day with just a gentle breeze), then the biggest variable was the big fleshy bit hanging on the end of the bow. He was insistent that he was doing exactly the same as he always did and would not contemplate that it could be him, but he also insisted that he had not altered his bow in any way. So what could have caused this apparent loss of performance?

Well I think we all know the answer, it was those little green me...........

No it was the archer of course it was, but why did he not realise it?

Well I think it was that although we all notice things that make a big difference to our shooting, like a pull or a sprain that we can feel, we don't always notice the small things that can effect our shooting. We are not static our bodies are constantly changing, when things are not working as they should your first port of call should be you. Stop check that your sight mark is right and everything is tight, think about what you are doing, go through your shot cycle in your head, for me this is :

Nock arrow.

Relax shoulders and look straight ahead (for me that is at the archer to my right as I am right handed).

Turn head to look at target and focus on the gold.

Lift bow to put the pin on the gold keeping the shoulder down and the arm relaxed.

Open the bow hand as I start to draw slowly towards my anchor, loading the weight onto my back muscles.

As I reach my anchor my draw slows right down to a crawl but DOES NOT STOP ( this way lies creeping). Remember I do not use a clicker .

Let the pin settle on the gold (let it float a little).

Roll the draw arm shoulder back and relax the fingers just a little bit so they are pulled off the string and the hand comes back to brush my ear lobe (just cos I like it!).

Hold! don't move until you hear the arrow land.

 Then take your next arrow from the quiver.

 This might seem a very long winded cycle but by focusing on the minute you can exclude anything that is distracting. The whole of the above only takes me about ten seconds to run through in my head, about half the time it takes me to actually shoot an arrow. About ninety five percent of the time my second arrow goes right where it should.

Aiming without aiming?

Ok so I went to the club on Sunday and tried out my old Winstar with the Tomcat limbs on it and it was fun.

The idea of instinctive shooting appeals to me and it is as far away from sighted target as you can get, with string/face walking and gaping you are still using a distance reference and adjusting to compensate for it. With instinctive the idea is to shoot at the target almost the same way you would throw a stone, with no conscious thought about adjusting for distance. This is not something that happens overnight, it is a case of shooting lots of arrows at a target and your body/brain should gradually learn where to aim.
 I recently had a chance to see some instinctive shooting at the club, our field archers asked if there is a way to have a classification system as there is in target so that they can gauge their progress. The solution that was put forwards is a set field course that will challenge even the most experienced archers and that we can setup again exactly the same any time we want to. A lot of thought went into how high a score would be needed for each classification and we needed as many archers shooing as many styles as possible to shoot the course to see if these were right. One the day I was shooing with my targeted recurve and just felt so out of my depth, each target is set at a different distance and height often partially obscured by leaves or long grass, all making it very hard to judge the distance. On most of the targets I was withing ten meters with my first guess and when my first arrow was high or low my second shot normally hit (usually not in the kill zone), but by the end of the round I was really feeling uncomfortable shooting  not knowing the distance. The three people I was shooting with were all shooting instinctive and all did much better than me.

Even though we have quite a few barebow archers at the club, I decided to just setup and see how I got on. So I set up a boss on the ten yard line over on the practice side of the field and had a go, just drew up focused on the gold and released....straight over the top of the boss, tired it again with the same results. OK so it looks like I need to aim a bit, or as it turns out find a sort of neutral position to start from. Once I worked that out I started putting nice groups of six arrows on the boss, well it was only ten yards and soon they were getting to close real arrow bashing stuff. So I pushed the boss out to twenty and then thirty yards, now things started to get a bit more interesting.

The first thing I noticed at the longer distance was that I kept looking for a sight or at least a reference point on my bow and had to really work  at just looking at the boss, the second was that as I relaxed and stopped looking for a reference my arrows started to group up again but as soon as I start to 'try' harder things went awry including arrows flying over the boss again. By the end of my little session my group was  moving in towards the gold almost of it's own accord. So not a bad start going to keep at it and see how I get on.

How do you like it.........?

Just a few thought s today, I was thinking about last Wednesday when I was last at the club. There were a few things going on with my bow that I have mentioned, but I didn't really say much about the truly awful round I shot, so here goes.

Now most of you will know that I don't shoot with a clicker and my reasons for this, but if not then briefly it is just that I feel the more aids you use on a bow the farther away you get from the shot, I think that makes sense. I often talk about how alive or dead a bow is, in an effort to describe how they feel when shot.

One extreme would be a one piece wooden bow with no stabalisaton or dampening of any kind, which will move with every twitch of your arm or gust of wind and in turn transmit back to your bow hand every vibration when shot and will feel "alive".
 Of course the other extreme would be a target recurve bow with a long rod, v-bars and limb savers This bow will have a lot of inertia from the weights on the long rod and v-bars and so will resist any movement to the extent that it will actually hold your bow arm still. There may also quite a lot a dampening from the long rod and some from of limb savers. This will all add up to a bow that will weight a lot more but will be much more stable and will feel "dead".
 To be honest if you are going for the highest score and to be as consistent as possible you want the latter, it will let you hold the pin steady on the gold and coupled with a clicker enable you to shoot as well as you possibly can. If (and it's big one) you have good form and a well executed shot cycle, because no matter how good and well tuned your setup is, you are still the one who has to make the shot and each subsequent shot the same as the last.
But for me, I prefer the former, I like to feel that I am making the shot, not just providing the power for a well engineered machine. I will not get the same level of consistency, my bow is less stable and no matter how much I practice, my draw will vary. Maybe by only a few millimeters 90% of the time, but it is the other 10% (where a clicker would let me know that I have not reached full draw or that I had pulled too far) that will probably keep me from getting my bowman classification ( I am going to try for it next season). I do use a long
I am not knocking people who shoot with aids and not preaching that you should shoot without, you shoot the way that you enjoy in order to reach the goals that you have set yourself.

Wow gonna need to make another post the cover the original topic which was "Have you ever had one of those days?".

Training off the range....

Well I did say a long time ago that I was going to do a little post about training off the range (at home indoors) but never got round to doing it so here we go.

With the British weather and just life in general I often find that I cannot spend as much time shooting as I would like and know from last year how badly that can affect my form, stamina and shooting in general. So I try to be good and do a little bit of training at home each evening when I get in from work, even if it is just ten or twenty reversals, using your bow or a stretchy band go through you shot cycle without an arrow knocked but DO NOT release, instead hold as if you are on the gold for 5-20 sec, roll your shoulder back and then come down slowly (I will talk about this in a little bit). It is very handy if you have a mirror that you can see your whole body in when doing reversals as you can check that you are keeping a good form and that you have a nice line from the bow hand all the way back to your string arm elbow. How long you hold for depends on what your are trying to achieve and how heavy the band/bow is, when I have time I will do maybe 10 sets of six with a medium band and hold for about 10 seconds each time with a 10 second rest in between each reversal and 20 seconds in between each set. I am not going for a cardio workout with this I am just reinforcing my draw cycle and each time I come up I am going through the same mental checklist as when I shoot.
 If I want to look at my form I will use a light band so that it takes very little effort to hold full draw and I can take time to look and feel where my hands, shoulders and elbows are. Knowing exactly where your hands and shoulders etc are is a big part of having a good form but many archers struggle with it, I have seen people being coached and being  told to anchor their string hand under their chin and they are insisting that it is when everybody watching can see it is along side their jaw. They are not lying,  it really feels like their hand is under the jaw, this is because they have not learned how it feels when the hand is under the jaw, the same goes for the draw arm elbow, lots of archers have a high elbow but when told about it say no I can feel it is down (they mean it feels 'like' it is down).  Standing in front of a mirror allows you to see exactly what you are doing and to 'feel' what you are doing.
To build strength and stamina I use a 'custom' training aid, I have a spare grip from an old bow with which I use a medium and a heavy stretch band so that it is like holding my bow I have then put a 2 kg dumbbell into the grip and used some tape to hold it in place. Now i have a training aid that I can use to build strength into the muscles that draw the bow and also the ones that hold the bow up. I don't do much other training as I am quite a keen cyclist and rely on that to maintain my core strength, but if I did not do that then I would need to be working on that.
One other thing that I think helps with my form and shot cycle is to mentally go through it during the corse of a normal day, just take twenty seconds a few times a day and go through your shot cycle in your head 'feeling' the shot as you do it. I think it is all to do with the fact that when you just think about moving your arm for example, your brain starts to send small signals to the muscles that you will use even before you have made a conscious effort to move it.

Brace Height?

Here's a little thought does brace height really effect  how the bow shoots, or is it more a case of a noisy bow distracts you from your shot and the anticipation of the noise is enough to make you tense up?

 I don't know the answer all I do know is I like my bow to be as quiet as possible and this seems to help with my groups. Changing the brace  height will only alter the tension on the string at rest not at full draw, so it can be compared to tuning a guitar string by increasing or decreasing the tension on it and therefore it's 'tune'. I find that is the brace height is too low I get a 'buzzing' sound from the bow, which I think is the top and bottom of the string vibrating against the limbs, if the brace height is too high the bow seems to make more of a 'thunk' or 'slap' and this I think is down to the tension on the string being so high that the limbs are almost pulled to a stop. At the 'best' brace height for me (about 9.25 inches) the bow 'thrums' and just feels nice to shoot.

The other problem I have is how people say brace height effects groups, other than what I have said about being distracted by a noisy bow I cannot see the vibration of the string effecting the arrow. After release you get the power stroke as the string pushes the arrow forward this whole movement from the release point until the string reaches it brace height again is part of one oscillation (so at this point the only vibration will from a poor release see a little release in the snow), the string will continue past the it's brace height and as it does will start to slow down at which point the arrow will leave the string and from watching high speed videos of releases it would seem that the arrow leaves the bow before the string has started it's return journey, so again I wonder if the only effect the brace height has on the shot is the anticipation of the noise. Of course changing the brace height will slightly alter the nocking height and this will have a small effect on the arrows flight.    

A little bit of release in the snow.

 I think it is time for a more general archery post, getting away from the specifics of the revolution for a change. On Sunday I was up at the club shooting in the snow, there was nobody else there when I arrived and it was just so peaceful really perfect for some nice quiet practise time.
I just shot 10 ends of nine arrows in groups of three trying to get my release right, I have been having a little issue where most of the time I either release well, or keep my bow hand still, but not both at the same time. On the few occasions when I get both right it feels better and the arrow goes just where I want it, if I move my bow hand ( my fingers not my whole hand) the arrow goes left a little (torquing the bow) and if it is my release (it keeps going dead) then they tend to go right. I have sort of got it sorted and it really is a case of not thinking about it too much, if I think about my bow hand then my release suffers and vice-verse , the bow hand is just resisting the urge to grip when pressure is applied to the palm (we all do it when we catch a ball or grab onto a rope swing, it's what saved us from falling out of the trees, so only a few million years of instinct to over come there). The release is if anything more important to me, I do not use a clicker and my draw is normally a continuous motion with my anchor point being more of a transition point, so as I draw and the weight on the string increases I have to increase the tension on my fingers by a corresponding amount to keep the string on my fingers but as I pass my anchor/transition point and start to roll my shoulder back I stop increasing the tension on my fingers and they are then 'pulled' off the string. This gives a nice clean and almost 'suprise' release and as there is no conscious decision to release there should be no build up of tension ( that's the theory any way).

Getting a few more views now and it would be nice to get a little bit of feedback. Go on just a little comment even one word, like/dislike interesting/boring informative/dross. You get the idea.